Fuenmayor, Rioja, Spain
time : Sep 17, 2025 9:17 AM
duration : 5h 51m 42s
distance : 19.3 km
total_ascent : 366 m
highest_point : 576 m
avg_speed : 4.3 km/h
user_id : fineartjones
user_firstname : Neil
user_lastname : Jones
Here we are then, our final walking day! There's a mix of emotions today, relief at it being finally over, sadness at it being finally over, and excitement at being back in Logroño, one of our favourite places in all of Spain, for the next two nights.
The walk from Fuenmayor to Navarrete is easy and near-flat gravel track (or Jimmy Gravill), apart from a quick 'run the gauntlet' over a duel carriageway on the edge of town. They seem to like doing that to us every now and then. The other day we had to do the same thing over a dual track mainline railway, which made us a touch nervous I can tell you! The track does wind and snake around a bit the closer you get though, and we wondered sometimes if we were actually going to Navarrete.
The route from Navarrete to Logroño is shared by both the Camino Ignaciano, which we've been following, and the increasingly popular Camino Frances, the only difference being they travel in opposite directions. For the whole time we've been walking, up until this point, we haven't seen a single Peregrino, but the moment we entered Navarrete, it was wall-to-wall backpacks, with scallop shells swinging from them, and flailing walking poles! And every one we passed uttered the obligatory 'Buen Camino!'. These were made up of 90% American, 8% Asian, and the remaining 2% all other nationalities. We quickly made our way up through town to the café we like, next to the church, but as we approached it we saw it was jam packed full with peregrinos, with some even loitering for when a spot becomes free. Just as we arrived somebody got up from there table and walked off, so we were straight in there! You snooze, you lose!
We did the Camino Frances around 10 years ago and it was nowhere near as busy as this!
We could walk for many kilometres without seeing anyone, which was lovely. Now it's like shuffling around an IKEA store! This was the main influence for our choosing our particular route this time. The first time we visited Navarrete it was more than half the size it is now, and had only one albergue, whereas I counted 14 on Google Maps, with us passing more under construction today.
Walking from Navarrete to Logroño, although fairly easy, is quite tedious before and after the park, where we stopped for lunch. We found the most tedious part from the park to the outskirts of Logroño, Which seems to go on forever. Upon entering Logroño, we headed straight for the bus station, to buy our tickets back to Bilbao, though when we arrived at the spot we knew it to be, it wasn't there! After some wandering the nearby streets we eventually discovered that it's recently been moved next to the train station, and has been imaginatively renamed the 'new bus station'.
For the end of our Camino, I wanted somewhere as close to the tapas bars on Calle Laurel as possible, so we didn't have to walk very far, and also a place we could relax in, so the Apartamentos Laurel hasn't disappointed at all. It's pretty fantastic in fact and I couldn't recommend it highly enough for a stay in Logroño.
This has been such an amazing walk. I purposely chose this route - or combination of caminos really - due to the apparent solitude and beauty I've read so much about, and I have to say it's been exactly that. Anyone looking to escape the hustle and bustle of the Camino Frances, or sadly even the Norte now, should consider either this route or something very similar. There are MANY caminos to choose from. Yes, it's difficult at times, but the scenery and tranquility far, far out-weighs that. Yes, I know it doesn't end in Santiago de Compostela, but is that what you're necessarily looking for? If so, then join the throngs of the Frances or Norte, that's great fun too. All I know is it wasn't for us this time. I've had a blast again with Jess, and I couldn't imagine walking any Camino with anyone else!
Thanks baby, here's to the next adventure!
Xxx